Lebanon has experienced more than its share of shit: hyperinflation, corruption, mass infrastructural collapse, etc. Government incompetence and Israeli aggression are constantly swept under the resilience rug.

I consider myself incredibly fortunate to be able to see the country so many of my friends grew up in before the world decided it wasn’t worth saving from its power-hungry ethno-fascist neighbour.

While so many try to flee now, back in the day, Lebanon was a hot destination, especially for South Asians. We didn’t require a visa (we do now), it was affordable, and it wasn’t too far. I’ve seen a black and white picture of my grandmother in a sari in downtown Beirut, probably in the 50s. She looked fire.

So, when my partner’s high school friends invited us to Lebanon for their wedding last summer, I was hyped.

My partner and I tied the knot in 2022 but didn’t have a wedding. The decision was primarily based on our finances and lack of bandwidth for additional stress. There were no pesky relatives talking shit about the biryani. We didn’t take time off work, and we sure as hell didn’t drop a down payment for a few photos. I got my dress for the small at-home ceremony from Amazon and returned it the next day.

Not having a wedding was my idea, but after everything was said and done, I felt like I was missing some movie magic – I grew up on Bollywood, its in my blood. That’s why I made a mental note to celebrate and enjoy our friends’ weddings to the fullest. After all, events like these are only special because you get to be in a room full of people you hold dear.

This wedding was nothing short of a red carpet event. I’d been warned about the extra-ness of Arab weddings. There were fireworks, debke performances, a multi-level buffet, swords, and everything in between.

Every minute of it was unforgettable, but I couldn’t help but feel anxious about the amount of work that went into it. The bride and groom made it seem seamless, but planning several day and night events throughout the city, looking after international guests, and paying for it all couldn’t have been easy.

They even organized itineraries for guests to enjoy Lebanon before the wedding started.

Here are some things that were on that list:

Batroun at Night

Since it was my first time in Lebanon, and I wasn’t gonna leave without a night out, iykyk. We ended up at this gorgeous beach club in Batroun – a coastal city in the north that happens to be one of the oldest in the world. It’s a major tourist destination with historic churches, cobblestone streets, and a vibrant nightlife.

The drinks were expensive, but the music was a vibe, and if all that was too much, you could sit on a rock and watch the waves crash.

Batroun in the Day

Our night was great, but our day in Batroun was even better. The town is a two-hour drive from downtown Beirut. There are loads of artisanal shops and beachside cafes. You can explore the old church or do a quick wine-tasting tour. Smoking shisha while overlooking the Mediterranean is forever my core memory.

Driving around Beirut

Lebanon is a small country, so getting from one end to the other doesn’t take long unless there is traffic. Half the country borders the Mediterranean, so no matter which way you’re going, beaches and sunsets are abundant and magical. Mid-way through drives, we often stopped because the skies were out here doing the most.

During these drives, we saw old buildings with new windows—an aftereffect of the 2021 explosion. We listened to locals talk about that day like our parents do about 9/11. Everyone remembers where they were, who they called, and what they believed happened before news updates.

Arz al Barouk

I never really understood why Lebanon centred a Christmas tree on its flag until we got to Arz al Barouk. This reserve is the largest in Lebanon and is the habitat of over a million cedars and saplings. The trees stand tall and spill over the hard edges of mountains. Locals say the slopes transform into a winter wonderland towards the end of the year. It’s an incredible hike. Make sure to grab some honey on your way out – apparently, it’s some of the best in the region.

Jeita Grotto

Speaking of jaw-dropping nature, enter Jeita. Jeita is a nine-kilometer limestone cave that sits 300 metres above sea level. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside but believe me when I tell you, holy fuck. A friend sent me this one from a previous visit. Entering the cave feels like entering an air-conditioned mall after a musty, dusty walk in the sun. I wish there were a way to bottle up that feeling and take it home. 

Téléphérique to Harrissa

Did you see that video of a guy being rescued from a broken téléphérique last year? That’s this téléphérique in Jounieh, 15 km from the capital. Do with that information what you will.

The ride is ten minutes long and takes you from Jounieh to Harissa’s Our Lady of Lebanon shrine. You get to cruise over highways, mountain-side bungalows and pine forests. I imagine this view every time I listen to Fairouz.

Raouche/Pigeon Rock

Of course, you can’t leave Biuret without visiting Raouche. I feel like I can check the Algarve Caves in Portugal off the list because they look so alike. You can sit in a café overlooking the sea and rock and watch boats go by for hours.

Visiting parents

We can all agree that meeting locals is one of the biggest pleasures of travel. Some of our closest friends are from Lebanon and have family there. Obviously, we had to stop by and say salaam. I love going to see the homes my friends grew up in. So much starts to make sense when you meet parents who’ve kept their children’s rooms half museum and half gym. Going through yearbooks, meeting the siblings with overlapping personalities, all of it, love it all.

The Wedding

The wedding was our last stop before heading back. I was so grateful to only have to worry about myself. Getting ready in the hotel room alone was so much fun. I took a long everything shower, listened to music while doing my makeup, and finished in time to take selfies.

I found myself being so thankful to be so stress-free. My only job was to show up and be arm candy. Being a plus one at weddings is probably the only time I welcome objectification.  

Anyway, if you’re visiting Lebanon, here are some things to keep in mind

• Bring USD, and bring more than you think you will spend. Most places accept the Lebanese Lira and USD, and you can exchange currency there if necessary.
• 99% of vendors (including hotels) don’t accept cards
• You can wear what you want
• There is an extensive security and army presence, so carry your ID with you always.
• The food is incredible. Eat everything. Period.
• Rent a car if you drive. This saved us so much on transportation, and options for where to go and what to do became limitless.

Shoutout to Ahmed and Yasmeen for the invite. May you both live happily ever after. May Lebanon thrive, and may its people return once more.

I wrote most of this piece before Israel’s invasion of Lebanon. Please donate to the Red Cross in Lebanon or the MSF doing life-saving work on the ground if you can.